Wednesday, February 15, 2023

Famous Australian beaches vulnerable to severe coastal erosion caused by La Niña

The Sunshine Coast shoreline is estimated to have retreated by 20 metres the past three years.
Photograph: Javier Leon 
 
From The Guardian by Donna Lu

Researchers say erosion of beaches along south-east coast – including at tourist hotspot Noosa – is significantly affecting local biodiversity


Some of Australia’s most famous beaches, including the tourist hotspot Noosa, are increasingly vulnerable to coastal erosion caused by successive years of La Niña, with experts voicing fears for local biodiversity.

Beaches along Australia’s south-east coast erode substantially during prolonged La Niña events, a study analysing four decades of satellite imagery has suggested.

The research comes amid warnings that erosion along Queensland’s Sunshine Coast, after three consecutive La Niña years, is significantly affecting local biodiversity.
 
Sunshine Coast with the GeoGarage platform (AHS nautical raster chart)

Dr Javier Leon, a senior lecturer in physical geography at the University of the Sunshine Coast, has been monitoring the shoreline between Noosa’s Main Beach and Coolum.
He estimated that over the last three years on average the shoreline has retreated by about 20 metres, while the sand dunes have receded between 7m and 10m and vertically eroded by 2m to 3m.

Usually, some turtle nesting occurs along that stretch of coast between November and January – “30 or so every year”, Leon estimates. 
“This year there have been no nests.”
“I’m assuming that it is because the beach and dunes have been eroded so there’s no place where turtles can [make] their nests,” he said, noting that there had been nesting activity further south, where beaches were less eroded.

“If you were to leave  coastal system by itself, the beach would move a lot. The real problem is when you have infrastructure behind, or even worse, on those dunes.” Leon cited Main Beach and Maroochydore as particularly vulnerable areas.

The Queensland analysis is in keeping with the findings of satellite research that studied more than 8,300km of coastline along the Pacific basin, looking at the effects of the El Niño-Southern Oscillation on wave-dominated sandy beaches.

Enso oscillates between warm El Niño, cold La Niña and neutral phases as a result of differences in sea surface temperatures in the Pacific Ocean.

Of the Australian coastline analysed, the researchers found that between 1984 and 2022, 48% of beaches experienced significant erosion during La Niña years.

“That signal is very clear in south-east Australia,” said the study’s first author, Dr Kilian Vos of the University of New South Wales. The erosion during La Niña was linked to a 7% increase in wave power and sea level changes, Vos said.

Conversely, El Niño was associated with an accumulation of sand across 75% of beaches analysed. Enso appeared to have the opposite effect on the other side of the Pacific, resulting in the accretion of sand on to beaches during La Niña years along the west coast of the Americas.

“Enso is very asymmetric,” Vos said. “El Niño events are very intense and very short, while La Niña events are rarely as strong but they last much longer.

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“Beaches kind of have a memory. If there have been many storms in the past year, the beach will be eroded and will take a long time to recover.”

He pointed to 2012-13 as an example, when the most extensive erosion in Australia was recorded.
That year the Enso was in the neutral phase, but it followed two consecutive years of strong La Niña conditions.
“This highlights how El Niño and La Niña can trigger prolonged erosion phases on sandy coastlines,” the study’s authors wrote.

The researchers studied only wave power but not the direction from which the waves arrived along the coast.

Leon, who was not involved in the study, said along Australia’s east coast waves tended to hit the beaches from a south-east direction, but “La Niña usually means more waves from the east”.
“As soon as you get too many easterly waves, then a lot of those beaches are not used to it, so they are prone to erosion,” he said. 
“That’s what we’ve observed in the last three years.”

Anthropogenic climate change would further complicate the natural cycle of coastline changes, Leon added. 
“The projections are that for the east coast of Australia, regardless of La Niña or El Niño, we will see waves shifting anti-clockwise, meaning they will come more and more from the east – because of climate change.”

The research was published in the journal Nature Geoscience.
 
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Tuesday, February 14, 2023

Quirimbas Islands


November 24, 2021 
 
Visualization with the GeoGarage platform (UKHO nautical raster chart) 


From NASA by Emily Cassidi


The Quirimbas Islands stretch 322 kilometers (200 miles) along Mozambique’s coastline and are teeming with an impressive array of plants and animals.
The 32 small islands that make up the archipelago are partly linked to the coast by mangroves, sand bars, and coral reefs.

An astronaut on the International Space Station took this photograph of the northern part of the Quirimbas Islands, near the Tanzania border, on November 24, 2021.
Light blue-green water highlights the shallow complex of corals, sand, and seagrass surrounding the islands.
 
A map of the island in 1775
Après de Mannevillette, Jean-Baptiste-Nicolas-Denis d' (1707-1780) 
Bibliothèque nationale de France 

View with the GeoGarage platform (NGA nautical raster chart)

In 2018, the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) selected the islands to be protected as one of its 738 biosphere reserves because of its unique biodiversity.
According to UNESCO, the islands are home to 3,000 floral species, of which 1,000 are endemic, meaning they are only found on the islands.

The islands’ waters host 52 species of corals, 140 species of mollusk, and eight species of marine mammals including whales and dolphins.
Five species of sea turtles are found there: loggerhead turtle (Caretta caretta), green turtle (Chelonia midas), leatherback turtle (Dermochelys coriacea), hawksbill turtle (Eretmochelys imbricata) and olive ridley (Lepidochelys olivacea).
All five of these species are listed by the International Union for Conservation of Nature as being threatened with extinction.


November 24, 2021

Vamizi, the long crescent-shaped island centered in the image above, is one of the largest islands of the Quirimbas Archipelago.
The island is an important nesting site for hawksbill turtles and green turtles.
Some 170 green turtle nests were observed on the island during 2019 and 2020, making it the species’ largest nesting site in Mozambique.

Increased tourism and fishing on and around Vamizi island in recent years has put pressure on the island’s marine ecosystem.
Certain fishing methods are hazardous to sea turtles, which can get accidentally caught in nets and tangled in fishing gear.
 


Concern about the health of marine species near the island led to the creation of Community Fishers’ Council (the Conselho Comunitário de Pesca), which established the Vamizi Community Sanctuary on the western side of the island as a no-fish zone.
The sanctuary covers about 10,000 hectares of reefs, mangroves, and deeper waters, and extends 5 kilometers out to sea.
 
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Monday, February 13, 2023

How NOAA’s first undersea lab helped scientists study corals


A drawing of the HYDROLAB, showing a cross section of the inside.

From NOAA

In the early days of undersea research at NOAA, scientists needed to surface regularly when SCUBA diving to study coral reefs and other habitats.
This slowed down their progress, making it difficult to conduct longer studies.
All that changed with the introduction of the HYDROLAB.

What was the HYDROLAB?

The HYDROLAB was NOAA’s first undersea research habitat where aquanauts could live on the ocean floor for days or weeks at a time.
It was used by NOAA and its partners from approximately 1970 to 1985, in which time it housed over 700 scientists on more than 85 missions.
The HYDROLAB operated on the ocean floor in the Bahamas, then in St. Croix, in the U.S. Virgin Islands.

NOAA's HYDROLAB, based in the Caribbean beginning in the mid-70s, was an underwater lab for researchers.

What does this have to do with corals?

The HYDROLAB made it easier to study coral reefs.
The projects performed in the 1980s included studies of the life history and behavior of coral reef organisms, research on the chemical ecology and compatibility between the tissues of different sponges, and the development and testing of underwater fish marking and release techniques.


Two scientists in SCUBA gear float above a coral reef as they study it.
The HYDROLAB sits in the background.

What was it like living in the HYDROLAB?

The HYDROLAB was very small, only 16 feet long and 8 feet in diameter - a little bigger than a mid-size car.
In that space, it housed a lab, three bunks, and a moon pool, which allowed scientists to get in and out of the habitat while it was on the ocean floor.
It had six viewports, electricity, running water, and heat.
The HYDROLAB held four people, but since it only had three bunks, inhabitants had to rotate sleeping schedules.

When it was time to leave the HYDROLAB, the inhabitants had to spend at least 16 hours in a hyperbaric chamber, so they wouldn’t get decompression sickness (known as “the bends”).
This serious condition can lead to effects ranging from joint pain and rashes to paralysis and even death.

Four scientists inside the NOAA Hydrolab as it sits on the ocean floor, with two more scientists in SCUBA gear looking in through a window on the end of the structure.


Dive back in time to HYDROLAB: NOAA’s first undersea research habitat

Where is the HYDROLAB now?

NOAA still has the HYDROLAB, but its undersea days are over.
It was decommissioned in 1985 and replaced by the Aquarius for underwater research.
The Aquarius is a more modern undersea dwelling and is currently the only one in the world being used for marine science.
It resides in NOAA’s Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary and is operated by the Florida International University.

The HYDROLAB is currently on display in the NOAA Science Center in Silver Spring, Maryland.


Former NOAA Research administrator Craig McLean points to the HYDROLAB, where three mannequins are staged as though they are working in the small lab it houses.
 
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Sunday, February 12, 2023

Image of the week : ocean currents in a global ocean view

The Spilhaus projection, visualising global warm and cold ocean currents
courtesy of John Nelson 

Ocean surface currents on a planisphere


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Saturday, February 11, 2023

How does math guide our ships at sea? - George Christoph

Without math, would our seafaring ancestors ever have seen the world?
Great mathematical thinkers and their revolutionary discoveries have an incredible story.
Explore the beginnings of logarithms through the history of navigation, adventure and new worlds.
Lesson by George Christoph, animation by the Hobizals.