Monday, March 15, 2021

Illegal fishing: the great threat to Latin America’s marine sanctuaries


Banner image by Kipu Visual’s team of illustrators for Mongabay Latam.
Design and programming of the visualizations by Rocío Arias Puga and Daniel Gómez Hernández for Mongabay Latam.

From Mongabay by Michelle Carrere
  • An investigative collaboration by Mongabay Latam, Ciper in Chile, Cuestión Pública in Colombia, and El Universo in Ecuador looked at illegal fishing and the threats it poses to Latin America’s marine sanctuaries.
  • The investigation revealed suspected illegal fishing activities in marine protected areas in those three Latin American countries as well as Mexico.
  • Many Latin American marine protected areas do not have enough surveillance or budget to prevent these crimes, and in some cases lack even a management plan defining a monitoring strategy.
  • It is in this context that foreign fleets, particularly from China, including boats with a history of illegal fishing, also cross marine sanctuaries during their journeys.
After drugs and arms trafficking, illegal fishing is the third most lucrative illegal activity in the world. It is estimated that around 26 million tons of fish and other marine resources are caught illegally every year to supply a black market worth up to $23 billion.

Illegal fishing takes many forms, one of which involves fishing inside marine protected areas that have been created to safeguard the biodiversity within them.

A team of journalists from Mongabay Latam, Cuestión Pública in Colombia, El Universo in Ecuador, and Ciper in Chile, with the advice of satellite-monitoring experts and scientists, analyzed the movement of boats within marine protected areas over a five-year period between 2015 and 2020.
This research revealed illegal fishing in marine sanctuaries in Chile, Colombia, Ecuador and Mexico. These four countries are among the top six in Latin America with the largest amount of protected marine territory, but the findings raise questions about whether they have the tools to control, monitor, and stop such illegal activities within their marine protected areas.

What the images reveal

The ability to track a boat’s movements in the ocean depends on whether it has a satellite device on board.
The device “is essentially a box that is in connection with satellites in orbit,” says scientist Fabio Favoretto, a member of DataMares, a civil society organization that analyzes data on fishing in Mexico and that collaborated with Mongabay Latam in analyzing the information for this research.
The device sends a signal every hour to a satellite indicating the boat’s position, speed, and course — information that allows researchers like Favoretto to later see, on a computer, the location of the boat, its trajectory, its speed, and how long it is taking.

When a boat is fishing, “many times, the first thing it does is slow down and then start to make turns or changes of direction,” said Favoretto, who is also a professor at the Autonomous University of Baja California Sur.
He points out that boats can behave differently depending on the type of fishing gear they use. “Some use purse-seine nets and characteristically have circular movements.
Others, which are trawlers, simply slow down and then follow a straight line.
With experience and knowledge of these types of gear you can recognize these patterns,” he said.


This Global Fishing Watch map shows some of the fishing activity in the world.
Press play to start the video and use the + and – buttons to zoom in and out of the map.

There are different online platforms that show the position and route of boats at sea. One is Global Fishing Watch, whose algorithm combines numerous variables, including those Favoretto described, to identify when a boat might be fishing.

Although these tools have a high degree of certainty, to be able to assert that a boat has been out fishing requires in-person confirmation. 
So countries use this technology to send their navies or fishing control authorities to certain locations to confirm fishing activity.

“We are never 100% sure. There is always a small percentage of error, but not because the model is wrong,” Favoretto said. 
“This error could be because they [the boats] made the maneuver, but did not fish … the net came up empty. What I am 100% sure of is that they did something they normally do when they are fishing.”

The suspicious activities observed in this investigation through satellite monitoring have been cross-checked with other sources to determine which boats have a history of illegal fishing and which companies are behind such activity.

The findings

In Mexico, we observed 17 boats bearing a Mexican flag and 1 bearing a U.S. flag carrying out suspicious fishing activities within Revillagigedo National Park, which is home to endangered sharks and manta rays, and where fishing is prohibited.
Despite these findings, since December 2018, only three boats have been reported for alleged illegal fishing in this protected area.

In Colombia, we observed that boats bearing a Panamanian flag and a Colombian fleet from the Seatech company (from the well-known tuna brand Van Camp’s) operate in Yuruparí-Malpelo National Integrated Management District, adjacent to Malpelo Fauna and Flora Sanctuary, where industrial fishing is not permitted.
Some of the boats have a history of illegal fishing and even of shark finning — the practice of catching sharks and cutting off their fins before throwing the fish back into the sea. 
Shark finning is illegal in Colombia.

Image by Juan Mayorga.

Seatech benefited from tax reforms after the company and its managers donated 480 million pesos, roughly $155,000, in 2018 to the campaigns of candidates aligned with the uribista movement, a dominant strain in Colombian politics.

In all four marine protected areas we analyzed, the surveillance and budget allocated to control is insufficient.
In some cases, management plans and a monitoring strategy have not even been created. In other words, many marine protected areas are currently parks in name only, making them more vulnerable to illegal fishing.

It is in this context that Chinese fleets move around the boundaries of the territorial waters of four South American countries to fish for giant squid (Dosidicus gigas), even passing through marine protected areas on some occasions as part of their journeys.

At the beginning of June last year, a Chinese fleet of around 260 boats reached the boundaries of the Galápagos exclusive economic zone to fish for squid.
For days, this group of boats, which artisanal fishermen described as “a giant city” in the middle of the sea, concerned scientists and government officials.
Although there were no reports of any of these boats entering Ecuadoran waters to fish illegally, their presence alarmed fishing authorities, the navy and even President Lenín Moreno, who ordered the creation of a committee to design a protection strategy for the Galápagos Islands.
The illegal fishing records of some of the Chinese boats were key to the Ecuadoran government’s decision.

Hammerhead sharks in the waters of Revillagigedo. Image courtesy of National Commission of Protected Natural Areas (CONANP)/Erick Higuera.

During this same period, 149 of the boats shut down their satellite systems and “some boats even changed their identification,” said Darwin Jarrín, commander of Ecuador’s Navy at the time.
Turning off the satellite signal is often indicative, though not conclusive, of a boat engaging in criminal activity.

In the case of Chile, we found Chinese fleets crossing Nazca-Desventuradas Marine Park, the largest marine protected area in Latin America, during their long journeys across the region.
When this story was originally published in Spanish in October 2020, these boats were near Peruvian territorial waters and had begun to move south, putting Chilean authorities on alert.

This investigation identified the companies that own at least 140 of these boats; 95 of them are operated by just 10 companies.
Most of these companies are based in the city of Zhoushan, on the East China Sea.
Until a few years ago this was one of the focal points of the Chinese fishing industry, but its resources have now been depleted.
At least three boats with a history of illegal fishing have moved in or around the Galápagos and Nazca-Desventuradas marine parks in the last five years.

A difficult crime to trace

Illegal fishing not only has devastating consequences for ocean biodiversity, but also for the economies of coastal communities that make a living from fishing, and for global food security.

The biggest problem is that detecting illegal fishing is difficult, according to Juan Mayorga, a data scientist who heads an alliance of three institutions using technology to further marine science and conservation: the Sustainable Fisheries Group of the University of California, Santa Barbara, in the U.S.; National Geographic’s Pristine Seas marine conservation program; and Global Fishing Watch.

Unlike forests, where illegal logging is visible, fishing crimes at sea happen underwater; so after a crime has been committed, it is not possible to see that prohibited marine resources have been taken.

Moreover, “those carrying out the illegal activities do not want to be seen,” Mayorga said. 
“So the vast majority of these boats are going to turn off their tracking devices if they have one” in order to avoid detection.
Even if the ships leave their tracking devices on, “in many countries, legislation and laws are a couple of steps behind the technology, with this kind of evidence still not accepted in legal cases.
This means that we have to intercept the boats, which is a much more expensive operation,” he said.

Destruction of the Fu Yuan Yu Leng’s illegal cargo in 2017. The vessel was caught with its freezers full of sharks near the Galápagos Islands. Image courtesy of Galápagos National Park.

In this respect, Alex Muñoz, National Geographic’s Pristine Seas director for Latin America, noted that “in addition to the difficulty of detecting illegal activity there is the weakness of the legal and judicial systems in prosecuting crimes committed at sea in the courts.”
According to Muñoz, it is for this reason that “countries often simply choose to persuade ships to leave national waters rather than arresting them and initiating legal proceedings against them, as the evidential systems are very outdated.”

In other words, Muñoz said, “it is very difficult to prove the existence of a crime and the fines or other sanctions are very weak, meaning it is not worth the effort for sanctions that tend to be very minor.”

Although the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) placed the global total of fishing boats at 4.56 million in 2018, this figure is only an estimate as it is not possible to determine the number of boats at sea with certainty, according to Mayorga.

The Global Fishing Watch platform tracks approximately 80,000 vessels via their automatic identification system (AIS) and another 5,000 via their vessel monitoring system (VMS), another satellite system. “We are talking about 85,000 boats, but there is simply no other organization, no other group, that can give us more
 That is what there is, that is what we have,” Mayorga said. 

The importance of marine protected areas

Oceans generate most of the oxygen we breathe, absorb a large amount of our carbon dioxide emissions, regulate the climate, and feed the world’s people.
The value of oceans as an asset amounts to $24 trillion a year, according to a “conservative” calculation in a 2015 WWF report.
Yet science has already shown that 66% of the marine environment has been significantly altered by human activity, 34% of fish stocks are overexploited, and populations of marine vertebrates declined by 49% over a recent 40-year period.
This degradation is increasing due to pollution, rising water temperatures caused by climate change, and ocean acidification as the ocean absorbs excess CO2 from the atmosphere.

To reverse these problems, marine protected areas are essential.
They have already been shown to benefit fisheries since they serve as nurseries for biodiversity.

This is why most countries committed to protecting at least 10% of their maritime territory by the end of 2020. While many countries fell short of this target, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador and Mexico are among those that met it.
In fact, Latin America as a whole has made significant progress in protecting the ocean: in 2000 it had protected only 1.43% of its sea area, a figure that has since increased to 23.6%, according to the United Nations Statistics Division (UNSD).

How much marine territory is protected in Latin America?


According to a United Nations Environment Programme report, however, “the physical area covered is just one part of the commitment […]
For marine protected areas to be truly effective they need strong governance to influence human behaviour and reduce the impacts on the ecosystem.”
Part of that governance involves each protected area having a management plan that sets out how the area’s marine resources will be protected.

In Chile, five of the 28 marine areas with some level of protection have a management plan. In Colombia, 13 of 18 do; in Ecuador, it’s eight of 11; and in Mexico, 36 of 37.

Satellite systems show that when a marine protected area is created, fishing activity immediately changes: boats leave the area (especially from fully protected parks) to allow sea life to recover. However, as this investigation shows, there are exceptions.

Mayorga pointed out that the development of management plans requires the same kind of patience as the unfolding of the biological, social and economic benefits of marine protected areas.
However, he said, it is important to remember that “without management plans, marine protected areas will not be effective.”

Muñoz underscored the point: “A marine protected area must be well protected through mechanisms for monitoring fishing and through legal and judicial procedures that allow offenders to be sanctioned.”

This is a translation of the main story in a special series called “Illegal Fishing: The Great Threat to Latin American Marine Sanctuaries,” which was coordinated by Mongabay Latam and Ciper (Chile), Cuestión Pública (Colombia) and El Universo (Ecuador). It was originally published here on Oct. 6, 2020, on our Latam site, where you can find links to the other stories in the series.


Sunday, March 14, 2021

Saturday, March 13, 2021

The story behind a lone house in the middle of Elliðaey island

The lonely house in the middle of Elliðaey island in the Southern region of Iceland
(sphoto : Little Curation )
A common sight on the internet

From Historyof Yesterday by Andrei Tapalaga

In the southern part of Iceland, there are a couple of small islands, most of them which are unpopulated, but one out of them all stands out.
The small island named Elliðaey became famous in the 21st century due to a secluded house that is located in the middle of it.
If you are old enough, you must have come across a picture of a remote house on a secluded island, many people still thinking that it is photoshopped.
 
Elliðaey island with the GeoGarage platform (ICG-HD nautical charts)
 
The history behind the house

The house was built in the 1930s by five families that permanently lived on the island, surviving by hunting birds and fishing.
Not much information is known about the families that lived there in the 20th century, but surely they didn’t like to interact with outsiders.
Whilst the Vestmannaeyjar archipelago, housing 18 of such islands, is quite popular as three of its islands are populated, this wasn't the case in the early 1900s.

These islands have always been seen as the beauty of Iceland, but as they are empty with little to no vegetation nor other interesting natural architecture, the fisherman who were the only people to sight them until the 1970s would not waste their time exploring these lands.
The main picture going around the internet is similar to the first picture presented in this article which actually makes the island look very small. but that is not even half of the island.
 

Elliðaey is part of the Vestmannaeyjar archipelago off of Iceland’s southern coast.
It is the island located furthest to the north-east among the group.
(Source: Wikipedia Commons)

The entire island is about 110 acres (0.4 squared km) and the only wildlife it houses is a nordic type of bird named puffin which is quite a delicacy.
That is why in the 1990s the empty house was adopted by local puffin hunters where they would only stay a few days until the hunt was over, sort of converting the house into a hunting-lodge.

The house does not have any electricity, nor running water, however, it has a complex system that collects rain which can be used for drinking or washing.
The house, despite its age and lack of maintenance, is in very good condition.
 
The island’s permanent population is zero and its only building is a hunting lodge built by the Elliðaey Hunting Association, which can be seen in this Overview on the northern end of the island.
Due to its unique off-the-grid location, the lodge has earned Internet fame as “the loneliest house in the world.”
geo postion : 63.465278° N, 20.175000° W
image : Maxar
 
Misconceptions about the house

There are many different misconceptions about this remote house and the island it is on.
From various stories about it being haunted to being the house of a billionaire that is waiting for the zombie apocalypse
 One of the misconceptions which actually became publicized by foreigners was that the house is owned by Bjork, a famous Icelandic singer.

This misconception actually started in the year 2000 when the contemporary Icelandic prime minister David Oddsson mentioned in one of his public speeches that he would allow Bjork to live for free on the island.
Despite all this, the famous singer never purchased the island, nor the house on it, so there is no connection.

The island, as well as the house, is still used by hunters and fisherman, but anyone can go and visit the island for no cost and even live there for a couple of days, the only thing you need is a boat to get there and some provisions if you are not willing to hunt puffins.

Friday, March 12, 2021

Port innovation from the bottom: the hydrographic (re)evolution

Bathymetric models are essential for the security of infrastructures, port operations, and vessels.
(Port of Barcelona)
 
Vector ENC chart (IHM) in the GeoGarage platform 
 
 
Knowing the details of the topography and depths of sheltered waters, dikes and approach channels of a port is essential for a good conservation and operational safety.
Ports such as Rotterdam, Hamburg, Antwerp or Barcelona have the most technologically advanced hydrographic services, capable of mapping the bottom and seeing everything that happens on the seabed Continuous innovation takes these most technologically advanced ports to the next frontier: to be able to achieve the same level of precision on the docks and on the water itself.

The most cutting-edge hydrographic services of the main international ports have technologies that generate bathymetric models obtained from the measurement of sea depths to determine the topography of the what lies on the bottom of a port. 

The most advanced systems consist of multibeam measurement that sends out hundreds of acoustic beams in a single signal that allows the hydrographer to receive more than 400 points that are measured up to ten times per second, a level of detail that is reflected in cartographic models of high resolution that describe the port seabed.
 
This information is essential for infrastructure security, port operations and for the vessels that navigate its waters.
The way to process and visualize this information collected by multibeam systems has also evolved. Nowadays, softwares allows intelligent management and screening of the thousands of bathymetric data collected during inspection campaigns and to share them with different departments in an understandable and adjusted digital format suited to the user’s needs.
 
Collecting the information
 
Ports like Barcelona carry out bathymetric surveys from a boat that incorporates a multibeam measurement system. 
To measure depth, parameters such as position must be controlled by means of GPS antennas linked to a reference station, located in the case of Barcelona in the Control Tower. Another key point is the relative position of the boat in the water, controlled by a motion sensor.
The physical conditions of the harbor waters are also analyzed during the measurements, to precisely determine the speed at which the acoustic waves travel in the water.A software collects the depth and position data that is then processed by the hydrographer.
Since it is acoustic technology, it is necessary to screen data that correspond to the rebounds that can occur and propagate in the water, something that artificial intelligence is not always capable of distinguishing.
“In terms of evolution, the algorithms that detect the bottom are becoming more efficient.
The transducers, which are the parts that send the ultrasound, generate increasingly narrow beams,” explains Elisa Palacios, Hydrographer of the Port of Barcelona.
 
Current softwares allows intelligent management and screening of thousands of bathymetric data. (Port of Barcelona)Current softwares allows intelligent management and screening of thousands of bathymetric data.
(Port of Barcelona)
 
The Port of Barcelona is also working on autonomous unmanned vehicles to carry out bathymetries in inaccessible areas, such as construction sites and areas of complex navigability.
Also, since 2018, work has been done on remote mixed solutions, where the hydrographer connects to the vessel from anywhere to control all the parameters of the bathymetric inspection, as if it were on board.
The collaboration between the Port of Barcelona and the most advanced ports in Europe is constant in this matter.
Barcelona staff have been to Rotterdam or Hamburg studying the technical and operational processes of these ports, and vice versa.
 
Data management and visualization
 
Some European ports such as Hamburg and Rotterdam, which have their own hydrographic department, generate a wealth of information from bathymetries which are complemented by additional data collected by external organizations.
All bathymetries are stored in a centralized database that is disseminated in various ways for users who need to access this information.
The data is managed using GIS software, a system that allows to collect, organize, administer, analyze, share and distribute geographic information that is also used by the Port of Barcelona.
"The management, let's call it intelligent, of the data and its storage in a database together with the records that we can exploit is the most innovative, and follows what the main European ports do," explains Miguel Ángel Cañestro, Head of Geomatic Processes of the Port of Barcelona.
A series of metadata or additional information is added to the bathymetry data to enrich and update the 3D topographic model of the bottom, such as the type of sensor used, the vessel or area explored and the hydrographer in charge.
These can then be cataloged by date, for example, where the most up-to-date data usually prevail.
 
3D topographic model. (Port de Barcelona)  
3D topographic model. (Port de Barcelona)

The activity of the aforementioned ports, for example, requires practically continuous dredging work, so one of its main users is the Construction Department and its subcontracted companies, who receive digitized graphics with the latest depth data that is essential to identify the areas in which these works must be carried out.

“Much of this information was previously delivered on paper, but the trend points towards a digital format. In Barcelona, we are going to do it through a web portal where the information will be shared with internal clients, such as the infrastructure and maritime operations departments that can view it in 2D or 3D, depending on the level of detail they require,” shares Cañestro.

As well as the seabed, technological evolution is allowing to investigate the execution of bathymetries in vertical structures and water columns 

The future doesn't stay in the seabed

This technological evolution has achieved such a level of detail that it is allowing hydrographers to go beyond mapping the bottom.
Elisa Palacios announces that the next step is to make models of the walls of the docks and dikes.

“The next evolution is to have the technology with such a level of resolution and precision that it will be allow to generate models of vertical structures, to analyze if the foundation piles of a bridge, for example, are suffering some kind of damage provoked by vessels which removes sediments near them," the hydrographer explains.
In this sense, Palacios shares that the developers of the multibeam data capture and editing software they use have requested the collaboration of her department to test the latest update of their program before releasing it to the market.
“The next thing we are going to do is acquire a new component for the multibeam system that will allow us to reach the water surface and have a model of the entire submerged part of the dock. This will be shared with the conservation department so that they can take the appropriate measures if repairs are needed,” she explains.

Another point of interest which is currently under research is the exploration of the water column and everything that causes a rebound of the acoustic signal to search for gas bubbles, fresh water emanations or floating elements which are dangerous for navigation. "
We are very close to the mouth of the Llobregat, where a lot of organic matter has been deposited and generates gas later released, so this is something that must be controlled," says Palacios.
The next revolution in port hydrography is just around the corner.

Thursday, March 11, 2021

Astronaut-explorer Richard Garriott makes record-breaking dive to deepest point on Earth


Astronaut-explorer Richard Garriott waves before entering Limiting Factor, the deep sea submersible that took him down to Challenger Deep in the Mariana Trench, the lowest point on Earth, on March 1, 2021.
Garriott is now the first person to traverse both poles, launch into Earth orbit and reach the ocean's bottom.
(Image credit: Richard Garriott)

From LiveScience by Robert Z. Pearlman

The son of a NASA astronaut and a video game pioneer who previously traversed both the North and South poles and funded his own trip to the International Space Station, Garriott completed a dive to Challenger Deep, the lowest point on Earth, on March 1.

"I am the first person to go pole to pole, space and deep and the second person — first male — to go space [to] deep," Garriott told collectSPACE in a call while still at sea on Tuesday (March 2).

Garriott, who is the incoming president of The Explorers Club, made the dive on board the "Limiting Factor," the first commercially certified, full-ocean-depth deep submergence vehicle that was developed and funded by undersea explorer Victor Vescovo.
It was aboard the same submersible with Vescovo as pilot that former NASA astronaut Kathy Sullivan became the first space traveler and first woman to dive to Challenger Deep — in August 2020.

Like Sullivan, Garriott made the trip as part of a series of dives aimed at surveying the Mariana Trench and collecting scientific samples.
Garriott, together with his friend Michael Dubno (who was mid-dive when Garriott called from the surface support ship, the "Pressure Drop"), also brought along their own set of engineering and artistic experiments for the journey.

collectSPACE.com spoke with Garriott about his record-setting dive and the similarities it shared with his other adventures around, and off, the world.
This interview has been edited for length and clarity.

collectSPACE (cS): Though certainly the deepest, this was not your first dive.
How did the four-hour descent to Challenger Deep compare to some of your other dives, such as to the Titanic and to hydrothermal vents aboard the Russian-built Mir submersibles?


Richard Garriott: What's interesting about Limiting Factor is that it's going to more than twice the depth than I'd ever been previously and, as it turns out, that is mightily more difficult.
To find equipment that can operate at half that depth is already virtually non-existent.
So to find or create equipment that can operate at double that depth is even harder.
They have had to overcome some amazing engineering problems, starting with just how to keep the passengers alive.

The 9-centimeter-thick (3.5-inch) titanium hull is the smallest vehicle I've ever been in, although it felt roomier than a Soyuz [Russian spacecraft] because there is less people and material on the inside.
So you actually feel very comfortable, but the interior diameter only starts at about 1.46 meters (4.79 feet) and shrinks to about 1.4 meters (4.59 feet) as the pressure builds on the outside.

Richard Garriott's view while seated in the Limiting Factor for the dive to Challenger Deep on March 1, 2021. (Image credit: Richard Garriott)

The temperature also goes from quite warm on the surface here in the tropics [near Guam] to just right about freezing as you get down into the depths.
It gets colder and colder.

The light disappears almost immediately.
Most other submarines in the world operate within a few hundred meters of the surface where there is generally still a little bit of light still available.
This one is descending so fast and so far that it becomes truly pitch black outside the viewport mere moments after you depart and so you're falling through the inky blackness for most of the four-hour descent.

Richard Garriott will dive aboard Caladan Oceanic's "Limiting Factor," the first commercially certified full-ocean-depth deep submergence vehicle. (Image credit: Caladan Oceanic)

cS: During the descent, do you just sit there for four hours? Is there something to do? Do you take a nap?

Garriott: I had taken with me a lot of things that I wanted to do on the interior [of the submsersible] associated with the outreach that I was doing with the schools across the U.S.
and even more in the UK.
Whether it was photography as part of a project that students were working on in concert with the company Canon or sharing and filming some of the artwork that school kids had created, or reading some poetry the kids had had written specifically for this challenge, that kept me busy for the downward journey and the upward journey.

In fact, let me just mention something about the poetry, just because I think it was the one [activity] for me that was the most surprising.

It's really common to decorate [and dive down with] styrofoam cups to show how they get compressed [by the pressure] in the depths because it is a fun little keepsake, but it was a gentleman from the National Organization for Teaching English that came up with a challenge for students that basically said to stay alive and do work at this depths in the ocean, the developers of the submarine and the scientists on board have to take only the minimum number of things with them on the interior, things absolutely needed for life support and for experiments.

The challenge to the kids was to write a poem called a cinquain, a five line poem of 22 total syllables, where the you're only allowed two, four, six, eight and two syllables per line.
So when you're going to write a poem about how to dive down to the deepest point of the ocean, you have to choose not only every word, but frankly, every syllable very carefully.

It turned out that was super popular for people to get involved in.
Not only did kids across all of the UK schools submit really clever poems, but as soon as people on Twitter started hearing about it, I started hearing back from students across almost every continent on Earth.
And I started hearing from relatives I didn't even know I had from various parts of the country.
All of them wanted a chance to participate.

Richard Garriott's view of the abyssal plain, the silt-blanketed floor of the ocean in the Mariana Trench.
(Image credit: Richard Garriott)

Even my own kids and family got involved in writing these.
And I wrote a few myself and even Victor Vescovo, the submarine developer and pilot, who was with me, he was enjoying these so much, he wrote one on the spot.
He wrote one down in the Challenger Deep at the bottom and recited it for the kids from there at the bottom, too.

That kept us busy for what otherwise could have been long spans of time on the descent and ascent.
Reading poetry turned out to be just big fun and much more interesting than I expected.
So there was very little time to rest or be bored.
Traditionally everyone takes a movie for the way up.
My selection was "Das Boot," the German submarine warfare movie, but we only watched an hour of it because we were still so busy doing other activities.

cS: What did you see and do when reached the deep, the bottom of the ocean?


Garriott: Our dive plan was to drop down first right into the deepest part of the eastern pool, which is the deepest part of the Mariana Trench, just to check off the box that we had reached the deepest point and to leave a geocache, which we did.

We left behind a 6-inch-square [15 cm] titanium plate connected to a 6-foot [1.8 m] line of Kevlar with a syntactic foam float.
On all sides of the float and all sides of the titanium is the geocache numerical identifier and a secret word.
The reason for the secret word is so that the only people who will be allowed to claim that they've been the ones to find it are those who know the secret word, ensuring that they've actually visited.
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So we successfully deployed [the geocache] in the center of the deepest point on Earth and then we cruised for about an hour across the sea floor.

The sea floor down there, right where you land, is what I'm describing as the 'abyssal plain.' It's a desert of sorts.
The bottom condition is both flat and has a very silty, murky bottom where the detritus from life seven miles [11 km] above it in the water column — whether it's scales or dirt or dust or the rotting corpses of fish above — sort of slowly all rains and settles down here at the bottom.
While at some point down below us you would get into what you might traditionally call mud, the actual entire surface is covered with maybe a foot thick [0.3 m] of this talcum powder fluff that is more like what you might imagine, or you might've seen in a Build-A-Bear Workshop where they have the fluff they shove into stuffed toys.

There's not really even a surface that looks particularly hard.
It is very, very, very, very delicate.
But there's actually quite a bit of life down there.
We saw almost every few feet or at least every dozen feet, one of these almost translucent crustaceans of a few inches long that would scoot around all over the bottom to make a meager existence out of the tiny amount of organic matter that makes it down there for food.

Large rocks from where the Pacific plate is being subducted by the Philippine Sea plate, forming the Mariana Trench, protrude from the silt-covered ocean floor.
(Image credit: Richard Garriott)

Then, as we crossed this abyssal plain, we actually ran into our first bit of humanity, which was a 7-mile-long [11 km] cable that had been previously attached to a remotely-operated vehicle.
It's worth noting that last summer when Victor was down here, this was not there.
And between that visit and our visits, a Chinese crew had been out here with both one free diving submersible and one remotely operated vehicle, the latter to photograph the submarine.

It's a fairly common practice for those who use these extremely long tethers to jettison it and the problem with that is it creates an incredibly difficult hazard for submarines because it's 7 miles long and loops and curls all over the sea floor and you can't see it until you're really in it.
We saw it first crossing our paths in one direction and we were shocked to see it, a little bit alarmed and concerned.
Then we saw the same cable, or presumably the same cable again, crossing our path the other direction.

cS: Before you dove, you said you had intentions to try to collect geological samples from where the Pacific plate is being subducted below the Philippine Sea plate (which is why the Mariana Trench exists).
Were you successful?


Garriott: We were unable to get a rock back.
We were having both some electrical problems and, unrelated, we were having some trouble with the manipulator arm.
It turned out to be a software glitch.
And then there was the condition of the rocks.

Even though we were in the rockfall, all the rocks that we could see were still covered in this very deep murky soup that I described.
Only little corners of large rocks stuck out and we really needed to find one that was small enough for the manipulator arm to pick up.
Because of the covering of fluff, we couldn't see the small rocks, much less reach in to pick them up.
If you came close to this murky bottom, you get browned out by the kicking up of that silt that might take hours to settle again.
And so we were unable to get a rock.
That is a task we will leave to the next explorers.

cS: One of your personal projects was to try to use the pressure outside of the submersible to hydroform, or mint, tokens.
How did that go?


Garriott: Oh, yes! We made a double-sided die with 18 bolts or so around a ring to clamp on metal plates to try to hydroform.
The side that we put copper on did perfectly.
It actually is a marvelous little, three-inch [7.6 cm] impression that was made across the die.

What's interesting is that there were still some air pockets below that copper plate, which means that a millimeter or two of copper is technically enough to where if you were to drill a hole in the side of the submarine — which you do not do — but if you did and covered it with even just a thin copper plate, it would bow into that quarter-inch [0.6 cm] hole, but wouldn't break, it wouldn't pop.

It's actually fascinating that on the one hand, this depth and pressure is awesome to try to think about how to build equipment to survive within it.
On the other hand, it's similarly awesome just how a simple experiment like hydroforming can show that even a thin sheet of metal, if it's supported in the right way, will not break and still resist that amazing pressure.

The other side of the die we had made with brass and the brass stayed stiffened straight up until water managed to encroach on the sides and fill the other half of the die.
So we've added a little special lubricant that they use on the hatches that helps seal from water.
We'll see if that works.Richard Garriott's selfie aboard the Limiting Factor submersible, which took him to the lowest point on Earth, Challenger Deep in the Mariana Trench, on March 1, 2021.

Garriott is now the first person to traverse both poles, launch into Earth orbit and reach the ocean's bottom.
(Image credit: Richard Garriott)

cS: So now that you've conquered the deep, how would you compare it to your past adventures? Does one top the others or how would you rank them?

Garriott: Well, space will be hard to beat, so space still wins.
But the one thing that all of the locations share is that when you go to someplace that's this extreme, the laws of physics really do seem to change profoundly.

In space, the obvious one is floating around 24/7.
Not feeling gravity is obviously a fundamental change in the physics associated with your life.

In Antarctica, it's the complete lack of being able to tell distance because there's no specular hazing, there's nothing like roads or telephone poles to give you a sense of perspective.
And so large rocks far away and small rocks close up look the same.
It's a fascinating place to be because of how sight and sound works and the same is now true for these incredible depths where you can measure the hull being crushed around you.

I took a digital tape measure and the submarine shrunk by 6 millimeters [0.2 inches] as went down to the depths.
The pressure was so great that even things like the acoustic phones, which were made for communicating underwater, barely work at those depths.

Water is non-compressible but in fact it does compress at least a little.
The density of the water becomes greater and greater at these enormous depths.
Our descent rate at the beginning was a couple of meters per second, but by the time we got to the bottom, the water itself became so dense that we slowed down to under a half a meter per second, just because we were almost becoming neutrally buoyant at the bottom, despite the fact that we were getting smaller by being crushed.

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