Alone on the Ice: The Best Survival Story You've Never Heard
Hear the gripping account of Australian Douglas Mawson's 95-mile trek
across Antarctic ice battling hunger, dire circumstances, and deadly
crevasses, as told by award-winning writer and adventurer David Roberts.
From National Geographic
Earlier this month, Chris Turney set off from New Zealand with a team of 36 people aboard the Russian research ship Akademik Shokalskiy, bound for Antarctica.
The goal of this modern Australasian Antarctic Expedition (AAE)
is to duplicate some of the observations and experiences of Sir Douglas
Mawson's original AAE team, which sailed for the southern continent 102
years earlier.
But on December 24, the Shokalskiy found
itself icebound far off the Antarctic coast.
Alerted by radio, a
Chinese icebreaker, along with other powerful ships, steamed through the
pack to rescue the full team of 74 scientists, students, and crew
marooned aboard Turney's vessel.
There was no fear of
any loss of life, but as of December 30, the Russian ship was still
stuck fast in the pack, and it was not clear how soon it could be freed.
For
me, all this brings home just what extraordinary deeds Mawson's AAE
team accomplished between 1911 and 1914.
I confess to my own bias in
favor of those Edwardian adventurers, as I recently wrote a book called Alone on the Ice about Mawson's landmark expedition, as well as an article about Mawson for the January 2013 issue of National Geographic, titled "Into the Unknown."
Still,
let's ponder just what phenomenal challenges Mawson and his men
overcame a century ago—challenges that no one today seems capable of
duplicating.
No Hope of Rescue
Had Mawson's ship the Aurora gotten
stuck in the ice in December 1911 or January 1912, it is entirely
possible that all 28 members of Mawson's team, as well as the dozen or
so ship's crew under Captain John King Davis, would have eventually
died, either of starvation or hypothermia.
In
those days, there was no hope of rescue from another ship. Davis and
Mawson had no radio contact with the outside world, and no one in
Australia knew where the ship was. There were no icebreakers back then.
If
a ship got stuck in the ice in the Arctic or Antarctic, the only hope
was to winter over onboard and hope the next summer's thaw freed the
vessel.
A few years after the AAE, the pressure of heavy ice sank Sir Ernest Shackleton's Endurance.
His only option left was an incredible over-ice trek to Elephant Island
and an open-boat journey to South Georgia Island (by dead reckoning in a
tiny lifeboat saved from the Endurance), now considered one of the great survival deeds of all time.
The route taken by the Australasian Antarctic Expedition, showing glaciers Mawson named for Mertz and Ninnis.
source : SmithsonianMag
Unmapped Lands
Turney's
team hoped only to reach Commonwealth Bay, where Mawson's base camp hut
was built, and to repeat many of the observations the original AAE crew
made in and around that base. (See "Modern Explorers Follow the Century-Old Antarctic Footsteps of Douglas Mawson.")
For
Mawson, simply finding a cove in which to build a hut presented a
monumental challenge, since the 2,000-mile (3,700-kilometer) swath of
Antarctica that he hoped to explore was a blank on the map.
Once
they found Commonwealth Bay and built the hut, Mawson and his crew
planned to winter over, knowing that the scientific research and
exploration that were the purpose of the expedition could take place
only during the second summer.
Turney's journey was planned for four
weeks; Mawson counted on a minimum of 15 months.
Grueling Workload
In the summer of 1912-13, Mawson sent out eight different three-man teams hauling sledges, each in a different direction.
The
amount of science and discovery those teams accomplished, as they
ranged as far as 300 miles (555 kilometers) from the hut, was
unparalleled before or since.
Given the short span of
Turney's voyage, there was no intention of venturing more than a few
miles from the hut—if they could even reach it.
Aurora
A Perilous Home
It's
all the more astonishing, and a measure of Mawson's huge ambition, that
in addition to his own 18-man contingent at Commonwealth Bay, Mawson
set up another base.
He appointed the tough, unflappable veteran Frank
Wild to sail with seven men in the Aurora a full 1,500 miles
(2,700 kilometers) farther west along the Antarctic shore to establish
an autonomous second base and carry out its own program of science and
exploration.
Wild's situation was even more perilous
than Mawson's, for in the end he had to build his hut on a moving ice
floe, not on bedrock.
At any time during the winter, the ice shelf could
have calved into the sea, taking all eight men and the hut with it.
And
by February 1913, Wild and his men had no idea if the overdue ship was
going to pick them up. Should it fail, the men would've had to kill
enough penguins and seals to survive a second winter, still with no real
hope of rescue, for no one in the world except John King Davis knew
where they were.
Starvation and Falling Into an Abyss
The
feat that led Sir Edmund Hillary to salute Mawson for pulling off "the
greatest survival story in the history of exploration" reached its
climax (or nadir) in January 1913.
Having lost his
partners Belgrave Ninnis in a crevasse fall and Xavier Mertz to
starvation, Mawson—severely debilitated and almost out of
food—man-hauled his half-sledge 100 miles (185 kilometers) back to the
base camp hut in Commonwealth Bay.
On January 17, he
broke through a snow bridge and fell 14 feet (4.2 meters) into the dark
abyss of a crevasse, checked only when his hemp harness rope caught his
fall, the sledge having providentially stuck like an anchor in the snow.
On
the verge of giving up, Mawson pulled himself hand-over-hand up the
rope and reached the surface, only to have the lip of the crevasse
break, plunging him all the way back in.
Summoning his last reserves of strength, he pulled himself up a second time, crawled onto firm snow, and passed out.
Summoning his last reserves of strength, he pulled himself up a second time, crawled onto firm snow, and passed out.
A few years ago, the brilliant Australian Antarctic explorer Tim Jarvis
tried to recreate Mawson's solo journey—although with all kinds of
built-in backup and safety nets, including a film crew with a rescue
helicopter and constant radio contact.
At the end of his own journey,
Jarvis was able to pull himself the 14 feet out of a crevasse (into
which he had been carefully lowered by the film crew).
Asked to do it a
second time, as Mawson had to, Jarvis failed.
Enduring Extreme Winters
On February 8, 1913, Mawson got back to the hut in Commonwealth Bay to learn that he had missed catching the relief ship Aurora by
only five hours.
Thus he and the six men delegated to search for his
body resigned themselves to a second winter in Antarctica, in what has
since been proved to be the windiest place in Earth at sea level.
They
pulled it off, despite one of the men going insane, as a result of
which his companions had to post a guard day and night, for the man
veered between begging the others not to kill him and threatening to
murder them all.They don't make 'em like they used to!
Links :
- The Guardian : Scientists re-trace steps of great Antarctic explorer Douglas Mawson
- Home of the Blizzard : Australasian Antarctic Expedition 1911–1914
- GeoGarage blog : Ernest Shackleton voyage to be retraced by modern-day Antarctic explorers / Shackleton Death or Glory - Rough Seas / Shackleton: death or glory /
- NPR : Lost images come to life a century after Antarctic expedition
- Photos : Franck Hurley
BBC : Why did Antarctic expedition ship get stranded in ice?
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