In this clip, Dorian gives us the play-by-play of a 50-foot barrel he rode at Jaws a few months ago.
The situation: just trying to get a small one in.
The drop: perfectly clean — until the giant boil.
The claim: not even halfway through.
It was a perfect wave that only he could have surfed so perfectly, claimed by Shane Dorian as the greatest wave he's ever caught in his life.
Links :
SurfEuropMag : Shane Dorian : the best big wave rider in the World
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