Monday, September 23, 2019

The Renaissance map that filled my childhood with monsters

Created in the 1530s, the "Carta Marina" was full of mythical beasts and terrors; so was my Northern Ireland neighborhood.
Madison McVeigh/CityLab

From The City Lab by Darran Anderson

Growing up amid the political conflict in Northern Ireland, a 16th-century map that blended real and mythical monsters spoke to my fears and fascinations.

My grandfather was a cartographer, though not in an academic sense.
For decades, he earned a living on the sea, primarily as a fisherman but also as a smuggler, a minesweeper, and a retriever of the drowned.
Visiting his house as a boy, I was captivated by the nautical objects he had assembled: tide charts, barometers, knots and hooks, flotsam and jetsam.
Amongst these items were maps of rivers, loughs, the islands that peppered the north and west Irish coast (now called the Wild Atlantic Way); all of them were filled with mysterious symbols.


The Carta Marina in all its otherworldly majesty.
(Word Digital Library)

But there was one map my grandfather kept that intrigued me above all others: the Carta Marina. Crafted by a Swedish exile, the Carta Marina was initiated in the Baltic port of Danzig in 1527, and published in Venice twelve years later.
Its creator was Olaus Magnus, a clergyman who created his map to try and convince the Catholic Church to retake the north after Sweden had turned to Lutheranism.

Though imitated by other maps, the Carta Marina was lost for centuries.
In 1886, an original turned up in the Bavarian State Library in Munich, with another reappearing in the early 1960s in Switzerland, eventually making its way to Sweden (unlike its creator).
In the early 1980s, it took up residence in my imagination, via my grandfather’s collection.


It beguiled child observers like myself, who’d recently outgrown Where the Wild Things Are and wished to find real-life wonders and terrors.
And I did find them: I grew up in Derry, near the border between the U.K.
and the Republic of Ireland and then immersed in the violence and division of the Troubles.
Perched at the edge of Europe, it was a place, like Magnus’ north, that was far from the centers of power in London, Dublin, and Brussels.

Though remarkably accurate geographically for its time, the Carta Marina was far more than just a representation of space.
To demystify the opaque frozen north and show it was rich and multitudinous, Magnus populated his map with livelihoods and activities, rituals and superstitions, a menagerie of real animals and surreal monsters.
It was a chart not simply of land and sea but a chart of psychology (including Magnus’ own biases), sociology, religion, weather, folklore, flora and fauna, fears and dreams, the clashing of human beings with terrible creatures and with each other.


Other maps of that era might warn “Here be dragons,” but the Carta Marina revealed them.
There was the fabled Leviathan rising and spouting two great arcs of brine with a vessel in its sights.
Sailors desperately tried to scare off abyssal monsters using bugles.
Serpents from the deep coiled around ships.
Magnus annotated each one, to give credence to their reported sightings and legend.
The grotesque sea-pig he pictured with eyes on its back, for example, had been spotted in the North Sea while he was assembling his map.
As vivid as these creatures are, they only hint at the vast alien world that existed beneath the waves; the sea-owl “Xiphias” is, for example, being attacked by another creature, implying a whole monstrous food chain and concealed ecosystem.

Even at its most extravagant, the Carta Marina has its own logic.
Its fictions contain fragments of truth, or at least attempts to reach it.
The supernatural conjecture was a symbolic reflection of the brutally real perils faced by sailors and travelers of Magnus’ era.
It was an attempt to find out why men sailed off and never returned to their families, and a tacit acknowledgement of ignorance.
There was practical wisdom within the map.
In certain areas, Magnus suggests at shipwrecks as well as accumulations of driftwood, pointing out places prone to perilous currents and changeable weather conditions—whether the treacherous Circius wind (“all who are sailing there must fear its horrifying and lethal effects”) or the perilous maelstrom (“Moskenstraumen”) near the Lofoten Islands.


Life’s rich tapestry can be found in the Carta Marina.
It is zoological, with polar bears on ice floes, wolfpacks and elks battling on ice, shepherds fending off snakes, beavers building dams, and bears climbing trees to steal honey.
(There is also an auroch goring the horse of a knight, a now-extinct animal that has since lost its one-sided struggle with mankind.) It is geological, with the burning mountains of Iceland demonstrating the geothermal activity of the island.
It is scientific, with Magnus revealing that he was aware that magnetic north and the geographic North Pole were in different places.
It is even philosophical, with Magnus suggesting that the giant Starkather—a legendary hero in Norse mythology, pictured on the map holding two huge rune stones—was great not just physically but in moral stature.

Borrowing stories from folklore, first-hand observations from his younger days of travels, and imagery from earlier artists, Magnus showed how different cultures responded with ingenuity to a harsh environment.
It is not a world without its dangers, even beyond the elements: Magnus charts deadly springs, a rock from which two murderous pirates operate, a body of water where a man is picked apart by sharks.
Even in the political aspects of the map, where he shows the kings and tsars of the various countries, it is an uneasy and potentially changeable situation (a wink to his papal audience), with the enthroned kings of Norway and Sweden staring across at each other.


Soon, the Carta Marina began to influence how I saw my own surroundings, and I began to draw my own maps.
I focused on charting my neighborhood: a run-down working-class Catholic and Irish Republican area, made up of terraced houses that had once housed Victorian shipbuilders.
I drew wind-roses, compass points, cherubs blowing winds.
I recorded the hiding places only my fellow street urchins and I knew of, beyond the sight of adults.
I mapped places where suspected treasure lay, like a small orchard in an alleyway, and places where perils beckoned, like a Brutalist block of flats, the glass-strewn alleyways, and the British Army watchtower that loomed over us in Rosemount.
I even created “Here be dragons”-esque creatures in the forbidden Glen, a wild wasteland area that we were continually warned away from and thus seemed to us to be full of adventures.
Everywhere peripheral is a center for someone.

The maps were my attempts to gradually expand my edges of ignorance, in a place and time filled with poverty, conflict and trauma.
Though I no longer have any of them in my possession, the maps I drew became a vital tool in helping me find my place in the urban fabric and, where necessary, invent it.

In the Carta Marina, too, myths also served functions, not least recording how the inhabitants of these lands saw the world, rationalized it to themselves and found their place in it.
Reading between the lines, their fears and desires are evident.
There are holy mountains and cursed places where the damned souls of men wail beneath the ice.
Places where demons attack cattle; places so abundant that cows will burst if allowed to graze unattended.
Is there any story that encapsulates the uncanny shock and grief of the loved ones of drowned sailors that Magnus’s recounting of the dead appearing at the doors of their homes on the day they died, unable to enter?

For the past decade, I have been exploring, writing and talking about different cities.
But only recently have I begun to realize that all of this is, in a sense, a continuation of those childhood maps and their naïve attempts to understand the places we inhabit.
Unwittingly, I had still been borrowing from Magnus.

After he completed the Carta Marina, the Swedish clergyman began writing an accompanying volume entitled Historia de Gentibus Septentrionalibus (“a description of northern peoples”), which sprawled into a colossal work.
Self-published in Rome in 1555, it’s a similarly multi-disciplined work, filled with accounts of elaborate snowball battles, descriptions of different kinds of frosts and winds, horse-racing across frozen lakes, statues that guard the mountains, military campaigns, ghosts and elves, witches and wizards, gravestones and magnets, comets and moonlight.

My forthcoming book Inventory (Chatto & Windus/ Farrar, Straus and Giroux) is partly about the damaging legacy of the Troubles and the suicide epidemic among young men in Derry.
As I wrote the opening chapter, I remembered my childhood maps.
There was a shared sense with Magnus of trying to shed light on a marginal place and people, somewhere that had been ignored, feared and silenced for so long, as fearful “barbarians” in the north.
The dangers in writing about it were to do so with excessive romanticism or righteousness.
My grandfather always cautioned against treating the sea with anything but realism.
He had experienced terrible storms where they prayed for their lives.
He had brought mines to the surface at great peril.
He had dredged up the bloated bodies of suicide victims to bring back to their families.
When I listened to The Shipping Forecast on the BBC radio night, I heard poetry.
My grandfather heard matters of life-and-death importance.

I thought again of the Carta Marina with the recent killing in Derry of Lyra McKee, a fellow journalist also working on the Troubles’ legacy of deprivation and suicide.
While observing dissident republican riots in Creggan, McKee was shot by a member of the New IRA.
The initial temptation was to think, in regards to the republican dissidents who took her life, that the terrible creatures on the map were closer to the truth than I’d realized as a child.
There were dragons after all.

Yet this would be a betrayal of Lyra McKee’s outlook and approach.
There are no monsters, only individuals, however lost, brutal, and culpable they are.
It is surely no coincidence that violence has erupted in one of the most deprived areas of one of the most deprived cities in the U.K., a city left behind and facing a grim future.
It is surely no coincidence that paramilitary groups are recruiting young men in a city where they face high rates of joblessness, neglected education, and lack of opportunities.
It is surely no coincidence that the uncertainty of the Brexit negotiations and the vacuum left by a hamstrung power-sharing assembly has seen the rise of gangsters and ideologues, rebranded for a generation with no memory of the Troubles.

If I was a child mapping my hometown now, it would, once again, have all manner of symbolic perils.
Hope is scarce, yet fear and despondency profit no one but the cynics.
Before her life was brutally cut short, Lyra McKee showed us how necessary it is to cast light on what is really happening, in a spirit of bravery and openness, and to chart the places and people who have been left off the maps, lest we all live in ignorance of our own frozen norths.

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Sunday, September 22, 2019

The biggest nuclear icebreaker

Time-lapse showing the Russian nuclear-powered icebreaker Yamal with a capacity of 75,000 horsepower and a distinctive shark mouth, which appeared on it in 1994 during one of the children's humanitarian programs, conducting Arctic operations along the Northern Sea Route. 
Also shown in the video is Russia’s first Arktika-class icebreaker 50 Let Pobedy ('50 Years of Victory').
The two icebreakers are the only two Arktika-class icebreakers still in service and recognized as the largest and most powerful icebreakers in the world.
This video was shot in the Arctic Ocean in March 2018.
For 7 days our crew passed through the Barents Sea to Karsky around the Novaya Zemlya archipelago on the nuclear icebreaker Yamal - we saw the northern lights and polar bears, watched the ships stuck in the ice being towed, and were very cold.
According to legend, someone suggested drawing a smiling shark mouth on the nose to make it more fun for children.
At present, Russia has the only nuclear-powered icebreaker fleet in the world.
They are used to provide wiring ships in the ices of the Northern Sea Route in the freezing ports of the Russian Federation, research expeditions, rescue operations and tourist cruises.
In addition to the extreme weather conditions, the shooting was complicated by the fact that the icebreaker was always in motion.
And if the drone was flying over the radar tower, the recording file was damaged.

Saturday, September 21, 2019

Heavy lift ship raises Carnival Vista out of the water



In a 12-hour evolution on Saturday, the Boskalis semi-submersible heavy lift ship BOKA Vanguard successfully floated the cruise ship Carnival Vista aboard in order to facilitate repairs at a shipyard in the Bahamas.


The BOKA Vanguard is the largest vessel of her type, and she has enough capacity to lift and carry the 4,000 passenger Carnival Vista.
The Vista is experiencing technical difficulties with her azipods, and she needs to be drydocked in order to carry out the repairs.
After the loss of Grand Bahama Shipyard's largest floating drydock in April, the nearest conventional solution for drydocking a vessel of Vista's size would be overseas - but the Vanguard could come right to the site.
She will serve as a temporary drydock while repairs are carried out, and the Vista will only be out of service for 17 days and three sailings.
The cruise ship is expected to resume her normal schedule later in the month.

Friday, September 20, 2019

When you teach a boy to fish

 Uncle Tony.
Photos courtesy of the author.

From Medium by Carl Safina

How my uncle’s generosity — and love of the sea — inspired me for a lifetime

Sometimes, early planted seeds that will germinate decades later into a writer’s life are planted by sources neither formal nor literary. Indeed mine were neither.
I had Uncle Tony.
What Uncle Tony had: An untrained eye for the beautiful and a willingness to share a little time near water.

But now he’s in a two-person room on the far side of the curtain.
Our visit is mostly a surprise.
As we file past the partition Tony takes in his visitors. It’s my mother, me…
“Here’s a person I haven’t met,” he says as we fully materialize.
“My wife,” I say, and before I can add, “Patricia,” he points to a photo of her on the wall, on a boat, holding up a halibut.

Tony had always been drawn to the sea, to boats, and to fish.
That drew me to him.
But today is only the third time I’ve seen my uncle in 10 years.
He’s not much of a talker so I seldom call.
At age 87 he’s got diabetes, recently pneumonia, everything hurts.
He refuses to complain and his energy is limited.
So the calls, which he always ends with, “I love you,” are short.

We all know he will not go home.
I feel ashamed that this is only our second visit here, and that he’s not previously met my wife of five years, considering how much a few brief experiences I’d had with him when I was in my teens have meant to me.
Recently he’d suffered several days of hallucinations.
His stepdaughter, Emily, advised we come soon.
Thus this hastily arranged trek to Staten Island.
I’ve been bracing for how we’d find him. But, though physically diminished, he is mentally very much himself.

Tony’s roommate has his TV tuned to a game show that he’s not watching, like everyone on this floor.
Except for my uncle, whose TV is never on.
He’s got the window, a view of distant Raritan Bay, and he’s got his wall of photos.

A crowd is gathered in front of a Brooklyn tenement on the day the government declared the end of World War II.
“That’s me, that kid on the right, half-hidden by the flag.”
The next photos of him are in military clothes in Korea.
There’s Josephine on the boat, fishing rod in hand, the late-arriving love of his life beaming her eternal smile.
In fact, the majority of the photos that keep him company are of people in boats with sunlit faces.

 Uncle Tony’s copy of “The Herring Net”

It had momentarily slipped my wife’s mind that it was Tony who had painted the masterful reproduction of Winslow Homer’s The Herring Net that dominates our living room.
Next to his signature is the year, 1962.
“When I brought that painting home and you saw it,” Tony recalls with a chuckle as he adjusts his oxygen tube, “you said right then, you wanted it”
“Huge turtle?” Patricia picks up.
“What was it, a big snapper?” “Leatherback,” he says.
“You saw a leatherback? Where?”
“We were off the Rockaways that day.”

I was 14, so it was 1969.
We were fishing for tuna a few miles offshore — as you could in those days — within sight of Brooklyn.
Tuna fishing is hours of waiting that, sometimes, instantly turns into out-of-control pandemonium. I was wound with suspense.
Studying the sea surface for any swirl or fin, I noticed the mild chop breaking over something just under the surface.
Suddenly a surreal, mechanical-looking head the size of my torso lifted from the sea-foam and gasped a deep breath — it was a thousand-pound leatherback, by far the world’s largest sea turtle. The indelible sight never left my mind.

 Author and the turtle

Tuna fishing is hours of waiting that, sometimes, instantly turns into out-of-control pandemonium.
Tony turns to me and says, “I never really got a great look at it when it was under the boat. I backed up when we cut the line.”
Soon after it had come up for air, it tangled in our heavy fishing line close to the boat.
I bent over the gunwale and got a clear look at its massive soft shell and angelic flippers.
An unstoppable force, it was quickly cut loose.
“You gave me a lot of work to do by getting me to see that leatherback,” I say.
Thirty-five years later my book Voyage of the Turtle was published.
“I went to see leatherback turtles nesting and migrating on three continents and in three oceans. Then we did the PBS show. You know how much time and money that all cost?”
“Sorry,” he says with mock sarcasm.
“Excellent book by the way,” he adds, surprising me a bit.

“And that was after the tuna fishing itself made me decide to write my first book,” I add.
“Hey, do you remember the article I wrote for Sea Frontiers?”
I had beamed with pride when I showed it to him, about 20 years after I’d pored through his magazines.
He doesn’t remember.
He’s getting tired.
We get up to say bedside goodbyes.

Patricia tells him she is so glad she’s finally met him and how much we enjoy having his painting of The Herring Net.
It’s so expertly done, you’d think it was the original.
“I gave them a few extra herring,” he confides.

For a man who never had the means for much generosity, he did what he could for the fishermen on the canvas, and the result has lasted decades.
About what he did for me, the same applies.
I want to kiss him.
But the cluttered reach to him in bed is awkward; I’m afraid of yanking on a tube.
I take his hands and say goodbye and walk into the hall.
I’m putting on my coat when Patricia overhears Uncle Tony say to his 93-year-old sister, “I guess this is the last time I’ll see ya.”
“You didn’t kiss him,” Patricia has also noticed.
I march back in and without mishap, I give him a kiss on his stubbled cheek.
It crosses my mind that this might be the first time I’ve ever kissed him.
“Thanks for that,” he says.
“Thank you.” I was seven years old. I had to wait for 50 years.

My uncle’s extraordinary talent for painting came to him effortlessly.
Unfortunately, nothing else did.
He was almost five when my immigrant grandfather hanged himself in their Brooklyn apartment, plunging a seamstress with four kids aged two to 11 into dire poverty, setting the family on a stagger from which no one ever quite recovered.
Despite enormous ability, painting was never more than a temporary avocation for my uncle, and after a few years he put his brushes down.
He’d been a starving child; he couldn’t afford to become a starving artist.
He bounced around a bit.
Eventually, he got a steady job in a boating supplies store in Sheepshead Bay, a paycheck he stuck with for as long as he worked.
I never saw him much but his interest in the sea interested me.
When I was 14, I decided to take a vacation: four days in my grandmother’s Brooklyn apartment just so I could hang out with Uncle Tony.
In his Mustang we drove to the New York Aquarium, where we marveled at the improbable sizes of old and obese specimens of fish that we loved to catch.
I snapped photos of doormat-sized fluke, bucket-sized black sea bass, and striped bass like logs.
At his home, I pored through his stacks of Sea Frontiers, an early magazine of scientific discovery for nonscientists.
Best of all, I was invited aboard Happy Days, the boat owned by Tony, my Uncle Sal, and a friend.
“You remember that huge turtle?” he says, knowing where this conversation will go.

Thursday, September 19, 2019

How Magellan circumnavigated the globe

On September 6, 1522, the "Victoria" sailed into harbor in southern Spain.
The battered vessel and its 18 sailors were all that remained of a fleet that had departed three years before.
Yet her voyage was considered a success, for the "Victoria" had achieved something unprecedented – the first circumnavigation of the globe.


One of Ferdinand Magellan’s five ships–the Vittoria–arrives at Sanlucar de Barrameda in Spain, thus completing the first circumnavigation of the world.
The Vittoria was commanded by Basque navigator Juan Sebastian de Elcano, who took charge of the vessel after the murder of Magellan in the Philippines in April 1521.
During a long, hard journey home, the people on the ship suffered from starvation, scurvy, and harassment by Portuguese ships.
Only Elcano, 17 other Europeans, and four Indians survived to reach Spain on the 6th September 1522.

Victoria, the sole ship of Magellan's fleet to complete the circumnavigation.
Detail from a map by Ortelius, 1590.

On September 20, 1519, Magellan set sail from Spain in an effort to find a western sea route to the rich Spice Islands of Indonesia.
In command of five ships and 270 men, Magellan sailed to West Africa and then to Brazil, where he searched the South American coast for a strait that would take him to the Pacific.
He searched the RÍo de la Plata, a large estuary south of Brazil, for a way through; failing, he continued south along the coast of Patagonia.
At the end of March 1520, the expedition set up winter quarters at Port St. Julian.
On Easter day at midnight, the Spanish captains mutinied against their Portuguese captain, but Magellan crushed the revolt, executing one of the captains and leaving another ashore when his ship left St. Julian in August.
The Magellan–Elcano voyage. Victoria, one of the original five ships, circumnavigated the globe, finishing three years after setting out.


 Commemorative Chart of the Fifth Centenary of the Voyage of the Earth's Circum-Navigation, Magalhães (Magellan)-Elcano (1519-1522)
As part of the celebrations of the 5th Centenary of the Magalhães and Elcano Earth Circum-Navigation, the Portuguese Navy joined the program through the development of several projects. One of the projects, under the coordination of the Portuguese Hydrographic Institute, consisted in the elaboration of a Commemorative Chart whose historical component was coordinated by the Naval Research Center of the Naval Academy and the History Center of the University of Lisbon.
In this context, on the occasion of the commemoration of the 500th anniversary of the departure from Sanlúcar de Barrameda of the navy force commanded by the Portuguese Navigator Fernão de Magalhães (September 20, 1519), the Portuguese Newspaper “Jornal Expresso”,will promote the distribution of a version of the Commemorative Chart in his next edition of September 21th, 2019.

On October 21, he finally discovered the strait he had been seeking.
The Strait of Magellan, as it became known, is located near the tip of South America, separating Tierra del Fuego and the continental mainland.
Only three ships entered the passage; one had been wrecked and another deserted.
It took 38 days to navigate the treacherous strait, and when ocean was sighted at the other end Magellan wept with joy.
He was the first European explorer to reach the Pacific Ocean from the Atlantic.
His fleet accomplished the westward crossing of the ocean in 99 days, crossing waters so strangely calm that the ocean was named “Pacific,” from the Latin word pacificus, meaning “tranquil.”
By the end, the men were out of food and chewed the leather parts of their gear to keep themselves alive.
On March 6, 1521, the expedition landed at the island of Guam.

Ten days later, they dropped anchor at the Philippine island of Cebu–they were only about 400 miles from the Spice Islands.
Magellan met with the chief of Cebú, who after converting to Christianity persuaded the Europeans to assist him in conquering a rival tribe on the neighboring island of Mactan.
In subsequent fighting on April 27, Magellan was hit by a poisoned arrow and left to die by his retreating comrades.

A 1561 map of America showing Magellan's name for the pacific, Mare pacificum,
and the Strait of Magellan, labelled Frenum Magaliani.

After Magellan’s death, the survivors, in two ships, sailed on to the Moluccas and loaded the hulls with spice.
One ship attempted, unsuccessfully, to return across the Pacific.
The other ship, the Vittoria, continued west under the command of Juan SebastiÁn de Elcano.
The vessel sailed across the Indian Ocean, rounded the Cape of Good Hope, and arrived at the Spanish port of SanlÚcar de Barrameda on September 6, 1522, becoming the first ship to circumnavigate the globe.
The Vittoria then sailed up the Guadalquivir River, reaching Seville a few days later.

Elcano was later appointed to lead a fleet of seven ships on another voyage to Moluccas on behalf of Emperor Charles V.